Pronounced “sur-wa,” this curry-style dish is a staple within Fijian-Indian households, combining tradition, spices and flavors that remind us of the comforts of home. Combining a rich coconut and tomato-based broth with aromatic spices and wild-caught cod, this recipe is one of our personal favorites. It is best accompanied by a bed of rice garnished with cilantro.
This spice-filled curry is complementary to a warm bed of cilantro-topped rice.
However, this dish is so much more than a harmonious blend of sweet and savory flavors. It also signifies the rich history behind our Fijian-Indian culture and tells a unique story with its flavor combinations.
A brief history of Fijian-Indian culture
We carry so much pride when we share information about our ethnicity and the lengths our ancestors traveled while serving as indentured servants for the British government. Starting in the late 19th century, the British colonial government established an indentured system in Fiji, which led to over 60,000 Indians being brought to Fiji as indentured slaves, or Girmitiyas. By 1986, the population of Fijian-Indians made up about 48% of the total population.
Sent to Fiji to work on plantations to harvest sugarcane and other profitable crops, the British created a forced agreement with South Asian workers, shipping them across the Indian and Pacific oceans. Like most British “agreements,”many of the brave workers enduring discrimination, exploitative labor systems and cultural divisions simply did not make or save enough money to travel back to their “native” homelands in India, leading them to raise generations of their lineage in Fiji.
Shayla’s story
Raised with the essential three ingredients always present in my household’s dishes – onion, ginger and garlic – I’ve been lucky to grow up with a family that loves to cook, eat and spend time with each other. I come from a huge family of grandparents, aunts, uncles, cousins, nieces and nephews, all located globally but primarily nestled in California. My mom’s side is originally from Ba, a rural town located in the northwest of Viti Levu. My dad’s side is from Rakiraki, one of the most beautiful scenic locations I’ve ever seen, with glistening waves complementing radiant foliage and hibiscus flowers.
As a daughter of immigrants, my parents courageously shared their experiences of living in a third-world country and the culture shock that followed moving to the United States. My parents often share comparisons in lifestyle – detailing the tin cans they played with as kids and the rivers they crossed on the daily walk to school. Living a privileged life in the suburbs of Northern California, my experiences of living as a “minority within a minority” simply do not compare to the obstacles my family experienced. Learning an entirely different, difficult language (English), the process of getting a job with limited educational experience and overcoming the discrimination faced within and apart from the Desi community made my problems seem trivial.
As the first in my immediate family to move away from home and attend a four-year university, my family’s journey of becoming reputable in the states has inspired me to continue my educational career and seek goals that were never possibly imagined back in the day, especially for Fijian-Indian women.
After visiting Fiji multiple times in my life, specifically this past summer, I became even more aware of my family’s sacrifices since immigrating to the states and navigating their journey with the support of only each other. By passing down recipes, my family shares stories of their blood, sweat and tears poured into each thoughtful and nostalgic ingredient, reminding them of their home.
Nowadays, when meeting other Fijian-Indians, I find that there’s an immediate and authentic connection driving us to unite. For example, finding out that Anusha’s family is also from Fiji felt like a small-world moment. And we were tied even closer together thanks to our shared passion for yummy food and quality time with loved ones.
Coming to college has shown me that through my family’s struggle and sacrifice, I continue to carry the legacy with each recipe, story and memory I share – aiming to honor those who came before me. It is my honor and privilege to share part of my life story and this recipe, hoping to inspire others to take a moment and share gratitude for the difficult roads crossed by our ancestors.
Anusha’s story
Unlike Shayla, I haven’t had the opportunity to visit my homeland in Fiji. Born and raised in Suva, the capital city of Fiji, both of my paternal grandparents immigrated to Los Angeles in the early 1970s. My exposure to my Fijian heritage came from spending summers at their LA home, filled with memories (and meals!) of their past lives on the island.
As a child, one of my absolute favorite activities was looking through my grandma’s extensive collection of photo albums that detailed my family’s story. My grandpa was one of eleven siblings and lived in extreme poverty in Suva, making a living by selling vegetables door-to-door. My grandma, also raised in poverty, was one of three daughters raised by their mother and taxi-driver father, who learned to read and write by observing cargo ships that came and went through the island. I was raised on these stories and their accompanying photos and I take great pride in my Fijian heritage.
However, my connection to my Fijian heritage has not always been strong. Growing up in St. Louis, Missouri, I struggled to find friends who looked like me or even knew what the small island nation of Fiji was. The islands are often viewed as a resort destination, while the country’s rich history and culture are overlooked. I can’t count the number of times I’ve told someone I’m from Fiji, and they’ve responded with, “I didn’t know people were actually from there.”
My lack of connection to my heritage motivated and excited me to go to school on the West Coast. While I looked forward to the diversity and opportunity to meet people with shared experiences, I never thought I would be so lucky as to find a Fijian best friend. Though Shayla and I have known each other for nearly two years, we didn’t realize our common heritage until this past summer, when she told me she was visiting her family in Fiji. As she described, it really was a small-world moment that brought us so much closer — Shayla is the first Fijian outside of my family that I have ever met.
Sharing Fijian stories and recipes with Shayla has been one of my favorite parts of our friendship – cooking has always been one of my love languages, so to be able to share a dish that holds a common meaning for us was a great experience.
Importance of food within culture and community
We believe food is a love language amongst most Fijian-Indians. Whether it’s sharing a recipe or ingredients, such as the homemade spices Shayla’s mom made, or bringing loved ones together to share a meal, we express our care through our food. We believe that these recipes have been passed down through generations and act as an active manuscript of our family’s heritage and the traditions they’ve carried since setting foot on the island. We love this dish for many reasons; not only does it bring us closer together and foster a sense of community, but it also allows us to take pride in our unique culture by sharing traditions we value with our friends.
To celebrate our heritage and Fijian-Indian identity, we created a rendition of the classic Fijian fish suruwa. Fun fact: Shayla’s mom made and sent authentic, homemade spices that were utilized in the dish!
Recipe inspired by Tara’s Multicultural Table .
Servings: 6
Time: 35 minutes
Ingredients:
- 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1 medium onion peeled and diced
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 3 cloves garlic peeled and minced
- 2 long red chili stems, seeds removed and chopped (we used 3 dried chili and 1/2 teaspoon of chili powder)
- 1 1/2 teaspoons garam masala
- 1 teaspoon ground toasted cumin
- 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 3 medium tomatoes finely diced
- 1 pound firm white fish (we used wild-caught boneless cod, however, we do recommend bone-in fish)
- Juice of 1 whole lemon
- About 3/4 can of coconut milk
- Salt to taste (we used about 4 teaspoons)
- Freshly chopped cilantro for garnish
- Steamed white rice for serving
The aroma of the cinnamon stick adds a subtle spice and sweetness to the cod.
Instructions:
- In a large skillet, drizzle the oil over medium heat.
- Once heated, add the onion and cinnamon stick. Cook until the diced onion begins to soften, then mix in the garlic and chili. Cook until just fragrant and stir in the garam masala, cumin and turmeric.
- Once fragrant, add the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally until the tomatoes start to break down; about 15 minutes.
- Push in the fish pieces around the tomato mixture to the bottom of the pan and drizzle lemon juice over the top. Cook for a couple of minutes and flip the fish to the other side.
- Gently mix in the coconut milk and simmer just until the fish is cooked through; about five minutes.
- Season to taste with salt and serve immediately with rice and cilantro.
- Enjoy!
A version of this article appeared on p. 19 of the May 22th, 2025 print edition of the Daily Nexus.
